Friday, April 29, 2011

Ash disposal

























Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible
floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials,
pending final disposal.
If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or
dispersed in an approved dumping area, they should be retained in the
closed container until cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Live cinders have been known to be active for more than 24 hours.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Removing ashes from the firebox






When you follow the suggestions for raking of the coal bed, you will find that ashes accumulate at the front of the firebox. These ashes can be removed easily before coal bed raking in preparation for loading.


Most modern wood-burning appliances work best when a small amount of ash is removed each morning before the fire of the day is built.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Friday, April 22, 2011

How to rekindle a fire from hot coals.

To rekindle a fire from hot coals, rake the charcoal towards the front of the firebox where the combustion air enters. Place the pieces of wood on and behind the coals. Open the air intakes fully and leave them open until the pieces of wood are well-charred.


This illustration shows the arrangement of of logs for an extended fire.

Allow the fire to burn with bright turbulent flames until the wood is burning well. This should take about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces and the moisture content of the wood. If the appliance is catalytic, this will also be ample time for the catalytic combustor to light-off. Now the by-pass can be closed and the air intakes regulated for a nice even burning fire.

Be sure to read the stove's operating manual for complete instructions.

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Techniques on Fueling

Techniques for fueling may vary, but shown below are the two most common.










Small pieces of wood arranged loosely in a crisscross pattern burn quickly because the combustion air can reach all the pieces at once.

Larger pieces placed compactly burn more slowly because there are fewer spaces where the air can penetrate the load.

Never add just one or two pieces of wood to a fire. Three or more pieces are needed to form a sheltered pocket of glowing coals that reflect heat toward each other and sustain the fire.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Helpful tips on buying and measuring firewood.

Firewood is measured and sold in units called "cords".

A full cord measures 1.2 m x1.2 m x 2.4 m or 4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. and is the official firewood measure. However, 1.2 m (4 ft.) prices are never used for home heating.

Other terms, such as "face cord", stove cord or "furnace cord" are used to describe a stack of wood measuring 1.2 m (4 ft.) high, 2.4 m (8 ft.) long with a piece length shorter than 1.2 m (4 ft.).

The most common firewood piece length is 400 mm (16 in.), or one-third of a full cord, but other lengths are also available. These various terms and cord measures can be confusing when you are purchasing firewood. If the dealer does not price the wood in standard full cord measure, convert the price to this basic unit.

Here are some examples to illustrate the conversion...

Dealer A sells what he calls a "face Cord" for $55. You find that the pile is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, with an average piece length of 16 inches. Divide this length (16 in) into the full cord length of 48 inches and multiply by the price. 48 divided by 16 = 3 x $55 - $165.
Therefore, dealer A sells firewood for $165 per cord.

Dealer B sells what he calls a "stove cord" for $45. It is a pile measuring 4 feet by 8 feet with an average length of 12 inches. The calculation is: 48 divided by 12 = $45 = $180 per cord.

Dealer C sell a 4 foot x 8 foot x 18 inches "face cord" for $60. The results is: 48 divided by 18 = 2.66 x $60 = $159.60 per cord.

If possible, avoid buying firewood in units that cannot be related to the standard cord.













Half-ton trucks and station wagon loads are impossible to measure and can be more expensive without your knowledge.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Preparing firewood for a catalytic stove
















Splitting and stacking:

Splitting logs hastens drying. The key to seasoned wood is that it has been split. Splitting exposes the wet interior and increases the surface area of each piece that is to be air-dried or seasoned.

Stack split wood or small round logs to allow air circulation and leave it under cover for 10 to 12 months, if possible. This will provide the best heat yield from the wood when it is ready to use.
Remember, refueling with wood that has moisture on it or in it, will create damp smoke that shuts the combustor down once the bypass has been closed.

Storage:
It isn’t necessary to store wood in a garage because a simple covering will suffice. The idea is to keep the moisture off the wood while drying to allow proper ventilation. Store the wood away from the house, as it can become a home for insects.