Does the combustor have to "glow" before it is working?

This is a misconception.

A catalyst can glow during certain stages of combustion. The determination that a catalyst is not working simply because it doesn't glow is inaccurate.

During the low burn cycle, when the catalyst is doing the bulk of its work, it usually does not glow.

Also, extremely dry wood (oak, ash, etc...) can burn clean enough not to produce a glow in the catalytic combustor.

Combustor operating temperatures.

Combustor temperatures can become extremely hot during operation....

Temperatures above 1800 degrees F. will damage the catalyst.

Temperatures between 1400 to 1600 degrees F. are normal,

but temperatures between 1200 degrees F to 1400 degrees F. are recommended.

What is the life expectancy of a Firecat Catalytic Combustor?

The life expectancy of the unit is around 12,000 hours or better.
Burning seasons, burning days and burning hours per day vary with consumers around the country. However, consumers have reported that after 10 burning seasons, the catalytic combustor in their stove was still working just fine.

It is recommended the unit be changed out every 6 years for maximum efficiency of the stove.

If you need a replacement catalytic combustor for your stove, you will find the right one for any model at: appliedceramics.com

How to get the best life out of the catalytic combustor.

Getting the best life out of the catalytic combustor.

The catalyst was designed to burn seasoned dried wood only. Burning garbage, painted wood, products with glue, plastic, rubber, large amounts of colored paper, petroleum products and other foreign materials will poison your unit if done on a regular basis.

Eliminate all doubt on this subject by burning ONLY SEASON DRIED WOOD.

Why is flame impingement bad for the catalyst?

This is the first of a series of articles on understanding the catalytic combustor a little better.

Why is flame impingement bad for the catalyst?

Direct flame contact is death to the catalyst. A catalyst burns the byproducts in the smoke. The gases such as CO, HC and O2 ignite with each other in a chemical reaction in the presence of the catalyst (while passing through the honeycomb configuration). Direct flame inhabits this reaction by changing the chemical make-up of the catalyst breaking down the substrate or ceramic.

Today's modern wood burning stoves are designed so that flame impingement is unlikely. However, it is not impossible. A strong fast draft can pull the flames into the catalyst. A hot fire with all the primary air controls wide open or perhaps the firebox door or ash pan door ajar are other ways the catalyst might receive flame impingement.

A close look at the Firecat catalytic combustor.

Firecat combustors manufactured by Applied Ceramics are made of high temperature, honeycomb patterned, ceramic substrate. They are coated with special noble metals. The honeycomb pattern gives the combustor the surface area for the catalytic costing.

The noble metals used are palladium and platinum.

These catalytic combustors have been used by the woodstove industry since the first catalytic stoves was designed. Most catalytic stove manufacturers worldwide are still using the Firecat brand as their choice for quality and performance.

Important information about the combustor in your stove.

Most catalytic combustors used in manufacturing catalytic stoves today are made of a high temperature, honeycomb patterned ceramic substrate.
They are coated with special noble metals like palladium and/or platinum.
The honeycomb pattern gives the combustor surface area for the catalytic coatings.

I would like to point out that cell density (16 or 25 cpsi) plus the combustor dimensions are both very important to both the stove’s operation and efficiency.

1. Open frontal area of the combustor is designed to receive the flow rate of the gases coming from the firebox.

2. The combustor’s size and cell density will control the residence time needed for the gases to burn within the combustor.

Always replace the stove’s combustor, when needed, with the original OEM combustor size and cell density for best efficiency and performance of the stove.

Combustor not working properly?

-Check your fuel supply for moisture content. Fuel should be seasoned dried wood. Rain and snow are considered moisture and will produce damp smoke and steam. Both are harmful to your combustor, especially when refueling and the combustor is burning hot.

-Check the flue and chimney, making sure the stove’s exhaust system is not blocked nor has any obstructions.

-Make sure the stove is getting the proper draft.

-Check all movable stove parts to be sure they are working freely.

-Make sure the combustor has not fallen out of it’s holding device.

-Check the combustor for plugged cells. Follow cleaning instructions.

-Check if the combustor has been in the stove for more than six burning seasons, it might be time to replace it.

-Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper firing. Different manufacturers and stove models require different procedures.as a rule of thumb, the catalytic combustor needs a minimum of 500 F. temperature focused on it for a period of 20 to 30 minutes to achieve light-off.
This is done with the bypass in the open position. Nothing but heat will be going to the combustor at this stage. The catalyst will receive the heat it needs in this period of time.