On the humorous side

Density of some common firewood

Here is a list of the tree species commonly used for firewood.

Those at the top of the list are hardest and those toward the bottom of the list are the softest:


Ironwood
Rock elm
Hickory
Oak
Sugar maple
Beech
Yellow birch
Ash
Red elm
Red maple
Tamarack
Douglas fir
White birch
Manitoba Maple
Red alder
Hemlock
Poplar
Pine
Basswood
Spruce
Balsam

Eliminate the confusion of purchasing firewood

Firewood is measured and sold in units called "cords". A full cord measures 1.2 m x1.2 m x 2.4 m or 4 ft. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. and is the official firewood measure. However, 1.2 m (4 ft.) prices are never used for home heating. Other terms, such as "face cord", stove cord or "furnace cord" are used to describe a stack of wood measuring 1.2 m (4 ft.) high, 2.4 m (8 ft.) long with a piece length shorter than 1.2 m (4 ft.). The most common firewood piece length is 400 mm (16 in.), or one-third of a full cord, but other lengths are also available.

These various terms and cord measures can be confusing when you are purchasing firewood. If the dealer does not price the wood in standard full cord measure, convert the price to this basic unit. Here are some examples to illustrate the conversion.

Dealer A sells what he calls a "face Cord" for $55. You find that the pile is 4 feet high and 8 feet long, with an average piece length of 16 inches. Divide this length (16 in) into the full cord length of 48 inches and multiply by the price. 48 divided by 16 = 3 x $55 - $165.
Therefore, dealer A sells firewood for $165 per cord.

Dealer B sells what he calls a "stove cord" for $45. It is a pile measuring 4 feet by 8 feet with an average length of 12 inches. The calculation is: 48 divided by 12 = $45 = $180 per cord.

Dealer C sell a 4 foot x 8 foot x 18 inches "face cord" for $60.
The results is: 48 divided by 18 = 2.66 x $60 = $159.60 per cord.






If possible, avoid buying firewood in units that cannot be related to the standard cord. Half-ton trucks and station wagon loads are impossible to measure and can be more expensive without your knowledge.

Smoke spillage

A survey of households that use wood for heating showed that a large majority of users had experienced smoke spillage at least once. Smoke spillage can be reduced or eliminated through good system design and proper appliance operation.

The smell of wood smoke can be pleasant to some, but inside your home its a sign that the wood burning system is not functioning properly. The smoke contains harmful air pollutants which can be irritating or even dangerous in high concentrations. Properly designed, installed and operated wood burning systems do not spill smoke into the house.

There are three main reasons why some wood burning systems smoke:

1. Bad system design: There are design characteristics that can make a wood burning system more likely to spill smoke. Most of these characteristics result in low flue temperaature and low draft. Outside wall chimneys and long flue assemblies before exhaust reach the chimney are just a couple.

2. Extreme negative pressure in the house: Energy efficiency practice and new building code rules are making our houses more and more air tight. This makes the house energy efficient, but also makes them sensitive to depressurization when air is exhausted from the house. Other exhaust appliances used in the house can cause extreme negative pressure in the house when they are operating.

3. Improper woodstove firing technigue: When a wood fire is starved for air it smolders, producing a relatively cool, smoky fire. The temperatures throughout the system are low. During a smoldering fire, the chimney will not be receiving the hot gas it needs to produce strong draft.

Cost of burning Wood vs Heating Oil

According to an article I recently read, heating oil averaged $3.527 a gallon.










How does this compare to burning wood in a catalytic stove?
According to the experts, 166 gallons of oil equals one cord of wood.
This is $585.48 compared to the price of one cord of wood.

Do the math and compare your cost savings.

Wood heat in a catalytic stove is the least expensive heat available.

Further, wood is an entirely domestic resource.

On the humorous side

Important tips on firing a catalytic stove

Catalytic stoves require special firing techniques. Instruction for these techniques will be found in the stove manufacturer's manual. If the manual for the appliance has detailed firing instructions, they should be followed. This is very important for smooth operation of the stove.

In short, the combustor needs light-off temperature before the by-pass should ever be closed.

A temperature of 500 degrees F. must be focused on the catalytic combustor for as least 25-30 minutes before the by-pass is closed. This will assure you that the combustor has had ample time to light-off. This is just a rule of thumb for any catalytic stove. Remember to read the manufacturer's manual before building the first fire in you stove or contact Applied Ceramics.

High-efficient "Zero Clearance" catalytic fireplaces

Today, high-efficient catalytic fireplaces are available. These EPA-certified catalytic fireplaces can be just as efficient for home heating as a good wood stove and are certified as low-emission appliances. They use the same internal technologies, as found in high-efficient catalytic wood burning stoves.

Heated air is delivered to the room in a different way than stoves. Room air is drawn in under the firebox, pass through a heat exchanger and returned to the room either through a wide grill at the top of the fireplace body or through ducts which can be routed to grills above the fireplace or into other rooms beside or behind the fireplace.

Although these EPA-certified fireplaces offer features that can meet both aesthetic and heating objectives, their installation is complicated and should be left to trained professionals.